It was the early 1950s. Transcontinental flights were becoming more and more popular, and both travelers and professional pilots needed measuring instruments with unprecedented functions. Rolex thus offered them a professional watch that could simultaneously display two time zones. The GMT-Master (for Greenwich Mean Time) was born. Since then, it is equipped with a traditional display (hour, minute and second hands) usually reserved for the local time and a 24-hour hand that can display the reference time or another time zone of your choice. More than half a century after its first release, the Rolex GMT remains an exceptional timepiece, and even a popular favourite. This guide presents the different strap options for a GMT-Master I or II, from the classic steel watch bracelet to the more original canvas and leather straps.
Rolex GMT-Master: a classic timekeeper with a variety of looks
The first Rolex GMT-Master was released in 1955 as a professional navigational aid. At the time, intercontinental flights were booming and, for the first time in history, it was now common to live across multiple time zones. The creation of the GMT-Master therefore took on its full meaning. This little marvel of design and technology quickly established itself as an essential wristwatch, so much so that Pan American World Airways made it its official watch. Its nickname was thus found and the once called Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master became for many the Pan Am.
The GMT-Master II was released in 1982 with a new mechanism. It remains the model sold to this day by Rolex, equipped with an automatic movement 3285 with bidirectional winding, a screwed back, 28,800 vibrations per hour and 70 hours of power reserve. In March 2022, at the time of the Watches and Wonders exhibition in Geneva, Rolex released a new version of the cult GMT-Master II, with the crown and date on the left side, making it a model for left-handed people, with a black and green ceramic bezel, a first for the GMT range.
Like all the color combinations of GMT-Master bezels, the left-handed model did not take long to be given a new nickname by the watchmaking enthusiasts. After Pepsi (two-tone red and blue bezel, in fact the colors of Pan Am), Coke (red and black), Batman (black and blue) or Root Beer (brown and beige bezel on brown dial), the black and green combination is now known as Green Lantern. All are equipped with a metal bracelet, in stainless steel and/or gold.
Which watch strap for a Rolex GMT?
Since the 1950’s, the Rolex GMT-Master range has never stopped evolving. As on the Submariner, the indexes have become circled, the design has been modernized, the superluminova has made its appearance. On the vintage models, the patina changes the watch a lot, with a very different evolution between a flash bezel and a faded or ghost bezel. Depending on the model to be equipped and its patina, the choice of bracelet can therefore vary widely.
Stainless steel bracelet: an obvious match for the Rolex GMT-Master I or II
1675 with the classic Rolex Jubilee strap
By default, Rolex GMT watches are delivered with a metal bracelet matching the case. Depending on the model, it can be made of steel or gold in different colors. Most often, GMT-Masters are mounted on a three-row Oyster bracelet in stainless steel, yellow gold, white gold or a mixture of yellow gold and stainless steel. The oldest Rolex bracelet offers a sporty look and reassures by its robustness thanks to its large flat elements. However, it is possible and increasingly popular to opt for a Jubilee bracelet, which is very fluid and elegant with its five rows and a choice of a hidden Crownclasp, a folding clasp or an Oysterclasp.
Its case being thinner than that of a Submariner, a Rolex MT-Master I or II can nevertheless be worn with a canvas strap to be more discreet.
Rolex GMT and canvas strap, for a subtle look
Not as imposing, the canvas watch straps bring a finesse and a sporty chic side that go very well with the Rolex GMT. Depending on the color of the bezel and the look you want, you can for example opt for an Avel and Men Tampa model, a Cordura canvas watchstrap that is both elegant and original (available in navy, khaki, beige, black, grey, red and blue). The Hyères model, a genuine sail cloth strap, is also a unique choice for a GMT-Master. It evokes both the DNA of Avel and Men and the memory of the sailors who were among the early adopters of GMT wristwatch models.
For an even more chic look, a leather strap is also a possibility.
From left to right: vintage 1675 with Tampa beige strap, GMT-master with Hyeres canvas strap, Rolex 1675 with Tampa navy
Leather strap on Rolex GMT
The Rolex GMT-Master are so often associated with steel straps that we sometimes forget that the vast majority of the first timepieces of the brand were fitted with leather straps and that some models are still sold today with leather bracelets. Swapping a worn-out original bracelet for a leather watch strap is a great way to give a second life to a Rolex GMT and give it a little more personality. The Avel and Men Douarnenez full grain leather straps are an efficient way to match your style. They are available in navy, burgundy, cognac and blue.
What size of bracelet on a GMT-Master?
For a Rolex with GMT function, the most common bracelets have a lugs width of 20 millimeters. For more flexibility, all our leather and canvas straps are available in different widths and lengths. If you have special needs, we can also create your own custom-made bracelet. Please do not hesitate to contact us with your requirements.
GMT-Master Pepsi on Douarnenez leather strap